FARTBURN DECLASSIFIED RATIONS
Causa Limeña (Causa Rellena)
SRC: FIELD

Causa Limeña (Causa Rellena)

Threat assessment 800 SHUMILD
  1. 1 No contact Nobody is in danger. Least of all the locals.
  2. 2 Light resistance A warmth. You mention it. Nobody responds.
  3. 3 Engaged You are sweating. No one else at the table is sweating.
  4. 4 Taking fire You have stopped talking. A child has taken your portion.
  5. 5 Operative down Extraction required. Locals describe this one as "not spicy".
PREP: 50 min
COOK: 1h
TOTAL: 7h
SERVINGS: 8
Causa limeña is Peru's great cold entrada: floury yellow potato riced while hot and worked with lime juice, oil and ají amarillo into a smooth, elastic masa, then layered around a filling — here chicken and avocado — and chilled until it slices clean. It is the founding Peruvian triad of potato, limón and ají in its plainest form, which is why the masa has nowhere to hide. A good one is vivid canary yellow and springy rather than pasty, sharper and saltier than seems right because it is eaten cold, and cut into layers that stand up straight on the plate.

// SUPPLY LIST

SCALE:
AMTUNITITEM
500 g Boneless, skinless chicken breasts, whole (2 of about 250 g)
1 Bay leaf, for poaching
1 clove Garlic, lightly crushed, for poaching
2 tbsp Fine sea salt, for the poaching water and the potato water (1 tbsp each)
1.4 kg Papa amarilla (Peruvian yellow potato), scrubbed, left whole and unpeeled; or Yukon Gold — never waxy new or red potatoes, which go gluey and refuse the oil
100 ml Ají amarillo paste (jarred is standard in Lima home kitchens; or 7 fresh ají amarillo, stemmed, seeded, deveined, blanched in 3 changes of water and blended smooth)
75 ml Neutral oil (sunflower or grapeseed)
130 ml Key lime juice (limón), freshly squeezed and strained — about 12 key limes or 5 Persian limes (100 ml masa, 15 ml filling, 15 ml avocado)
3.25 tsp Fine sea salt, for the masa, the filling and the avocado (2 1/2 tsp, 1/2 tsp, 1/4 tsp)
0.75 tsp White pepper, freshly ground, for the masa and the filling (1/2 tsp, 1/4 tsp)
150 g Mayonnaise, full-fat (120 g for the filling, 30 g for finishing)
1 stalk Celery, inner stalk, strings peeled off, cut into 3 mm dice
40 g Red onion, cut into 2 mm dice, rinsed under cold water and squeezed dry
2 Hass avocados, ripe but still firm (about 400 g whole, 280 g flesh), peeled, stoned and sliced 5 mm thick just before assembly
2 Eggs, hard-boiled 9 minutes, cooled, peeled and quartered lengthwise
8 Botija olives (Peruvian black olives), pitted and halved
1 tbsp Flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
8 Butter or romaine lettuce leaves, small, washed and dried, for serving

// OPERATIONS

  1. 1 Put the two chicken breasts in an 18 cm saucepan with the bay leaf, crushed garlic and 1 tbsp of the salt, cover with cold water by 3 cm and bring it over medium heat to 85C/185F, where the surface shivers with a few bubbles at the edge and never rolls — a boil tightens the breast into dry strings that will not bind with mayonnaise. Cover, slide the pan off the heat and leave it 18-20 minutes, until the thickest part reads 74C/165F and the juices run clear, then let it cool in its poaching liquid for 20 minutes.
  2. 2 Put the whole unpeeled potatoes in a 26 cm pan with the remaining 1 tbsp salt, cover with cold water by 4 cm and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat, then drop the heat to hold a lazy 95C/203F bubble; start testing small papa amarilla at 25 minutes and medium Yukon Golds at 35, and cook until a thin skewer slides to the centre and out with no resistance while the skins are still whole and only just splitting. Skins on and a cold-water start are what keep the potato from drinking water; a waterlogged potato is the single most common cause of a causa that never comes together, and a hard boil that bursts the skins is the second.
  3. 3 Drain, and peel the potatoes as soon as you can hold them in a folded cloth — the skins should slip away under a paring knife — then pass the flesh straight through a potato ricer or a drum sieve into a wide bowl. It must be done hot: once the cooked starch drops below about 50C/122F it begins to set and firm into lumps that no amount of working will dissolve. Do not use a food processor, blender or stick blender at any point; the blades rupture the starch granules and turn the causa into wallpaper paste within seconds. Spread the riced potato out and let it steam dry for 2 minutes.
  4. 4 While the potato is still hot to the touch, around 60C/140F, add the ají amarillo paste, the oil, 100 ml of the lime juice, 2 1/2 tsp of the salt and 1/2 tsp of the white pepper, and work it with the heel of your hand or a wooden spoon for 4-5 minutes until it is one even canary yellow, glossy and elastic, pulling away from the bowl in a single mass and holding a pressed fingerprint. If it feels stiff and crumbly rather than supple, work in warm water a teaspoon at a time. Season it harder than feels comfortable — it is eaten cold, and cold flattens both salt and acid, so the raw masa should taste one clear notch too sharp and too salty.
  5. 5 Press cling film onto the surface of the masa and let it come down to room temperature, about 25 minutes, until it is barely warm and no longer steaming. Do not refrigerate it at this stage: the oil firms up and the masa tears and crumbles instead of spreading.
  6. 6 Pull the cooled chicken into fine threads with your fingers and chop them so no piece is longer than 1 cm, then fold through 120 g of the mayonnaise, the celery, the rinsed red onion, 15 ml (1 tbsp) of the lime juice, 1/2 tsp of the salt and 1/4 tsp of the white pepper. It should mound on a spoon and hold its shape rather than slump — a wet filling becomes a slip plane and the top layer slides off the moment you cut it; if it slumps, drain it in a sieve for 10 minutes rather than adding more potato. The tuna version (two drained 150 g cans in place of the chicken) and the vegetable one (200 g each of blanched diced carrot, green beans and peas) are built exactly the same way and are every bit as much causa in Lima as this one.
  7. 7 Line a 20 cm square dish or tin at least 6 cm deep with cling film, leaving 8 cm overhanging two opposite sides, then weigh the masa and divide it into two equal halves. Press one half over the base in an even layer about 1.5 cm thick using wet hands and a wet offset spatula, working it right into the corners — any thin patch is exactly where the finished causa will crack when you lift it.
  8. 8 Spread the filling over the masa in an even 1.5 cm layer, stopping 5 mm short of the edges so it cannot squeeze out under pressure, then fan the avocado slices over it in a single overlapping layer that covers the whole surface with no bare patches, and season them with the last 15 ml (1 tbsp) of lime juice and the remaining 1/4 tsp salt — unsalted avocado reads as nothing against the ají, and the lime keeps it from browning inside the causa.
  9. 9 Press the second half of the masa out into a 20 cm square sheet on a piece of cling film, then invert it onto the filling and peel the film away; dolloping it on and spreading drags the filling and marbles the layers. Patch any tears with wet fingers and smooth the top perfectly flat, pressing gently all over so there are no air gaps between the layers.
  10. 10 Cover the surface with cling film and refrigerate for at least 4 hours, and preferably overnight, up to 24 hours. This is the step people skip and it is the entire dish: the chill is what sets the starch and oil so the causa slices into clean, upright layers. An unchilled causa is mashed potato with salad on top.
  11. 11 Lift the causa out by the cling film onto a board and peel the film down, trim 5 mm off each edge with a knife dipped in hot water and wiped dry, then cut it into 8 rectangles, re-dipping and wiping the blade between every single cut so the layers stay sharp and the masa does not drag.
  12. 12 Let the portions stand at room temperature for 15-20 minutes before serving — fridge-cold, the ají and lime are mute — then streak or pipe the remaining 30 g mayonnaise over the tops and finish each piece with a quarter of hard-boiled egg, the two halves of a botija olive and a pinch of parsley. Serve cold but not chilled to death, one piece per person as an entrada, each set on a lettuce leaf, with a cold Pilsen or a chilled Peruvian white alongside.

// CLASSIFICATIONS